The Blaine County Journal News-Opinion - We've Got The County Covered

Reporter's note: Like most readers, I seldom have taken time to visit the sites connected to the Missouri River in and around Great Falls. A trip to the Electric City usually is hurried with rushing to make an appointment or meeting, then another dash to run a few errands in the city and, finally, head for home.

Recently my wife and I spent a couple of days in Great Falls. During our stay, and particularly after the medical appointments were completed, we forced ourselves to take some time to see some of the sites along the Big Mo. Here's some of what we saw and learned.

The 60-mile long River's Edge Trail

Started 26 years ago, and still a work in progress, the River's Edge Trail follows along both banks of the Missouri River through Great Falls proper and on to some dams and other historical sites as well. The 60 miles of paved trail reaches from the southeast trail terminus at the Grand Forks Visitors' Center, in downtown, to Rainbow Dam, northeast of the city. In some places linked hiking trails lead to more rugged areas along the river, other side trails end at picnic or special use areas.

We stayed at a motel close to CM Russell High School, adjacent to the Northwest By-pass. Just across 3rd Street NW, the main artery that follows the river and leads to the by-pass, there are pedestrian access points to a 3.5-mile circuit that runs from the 1st Avenue North Bridge to the 9th Street South Bridge near the refinery. By starting on one bank, walking to one of the two mentioned bridges, crossing the river, walking to the other bridge and crossing the opposite bridge, one can make a circuit with lots of variety and many spectacular views of the river and town. At a brisk pace the circuit takes about one hour. It's time well spent for viewing and learning about the areas along the river.

Adjacent to the 1st Avenue North Bridge for vehicles, there is a pedestrian crossing created from an old railroad bridge across the river. That area has lots of art as well as views of the towers on the two old railroad terminals located downtown. Part of the walk is on the dike, nearest the main part of the city, with nice views across the river to the west. On the northwest side of the circuit one walks by the refinery and city water works. At Sacagawea Island, where the river bends from the north bridge, there is abundant water fowl and other native birds for viewing. That area also has a lot of sculpture and other types of art on display.

Visits to a couple of dams on the

Missouri River outside Great Falls

The oldest of the dams on the river is Black Eagle. The original dam, built in 1890, is on the falls named by Meriwether Lewis for the black eagle he saw nesting on the island below the original falls. To access Black Eagle Dam, head north from Great Falls toward Havre via US 87. After crossing the 15th Street South bridge, take the first right on to North River Road. It is about two miles to the dam from that turn off US 87.

The original dam was replaced in the late 1920's to serve as a hydroelectric dam, which still produces electricity. Because it is so close to the city (a 2.2 mile walk on the River's Edge Trail from the southmost bridge), it has a lot of visitors for recreation and sightseeing. Black Eagle Memorial Island, which was partially created when some of the river was diverted to drive the generators in the power plant, has hiking trails that go through native vegetation. We saw a number of hikers and joggers using the trails on the island. There are more developed recreational facilities at Black Eagle than some other dams.

The dam was built to provide power for a copper smelter located adjacent to the dam. Because of waste dumped in the area over the years, the EPA has declared the area a Superfund site, requiring extensive cleanup and monitoring for any future development. The manager at the motel, where we stayed, said, "When the smelter closed, that was a major blow to Great Falls. We've never seen increased population gain since the smelter shutdown (in the 1980's)."

By coming back to US 87, and heading north again, two more dams can be accessed by highway. About three miles out of town, look for a sign to Ryan Dam and/or Morony Dam. Morony Dam Road heads east off US 87. At about 10 miles there is a well-marked fork with signs indicating a right turn toward Ryan Dam and a left turn toward Morony Dam.

Ryan Dam is built on the largest of the great falls. It was started in 1915 as a hydroelectric dam and was originally named Volta Dam. Later it was renamed for John D. Ryan, a mining engineer who was president of the Anaconda Copper Company and created Montana Power. The "island" at Ryan Dam is more of a lush picnic area with some short walks for great panoramic views of the dam.

The island is accessed by an old suspension bridge. On the island is an interesting building described as an "electric stove kitchen" built to show the advantages of using electricity for cooking. In a 1917 issue of a trade publication titled "Electrical Review," a manager with Montana Power described the success his company had convincing housewives of the convenience of electric ranges over wood/coal/oil stoves. Perhaps the ranges installed in this little building had something to do with showing the advantages of cooking with electricity.

Right The River's Edge Trail is a 60-mile trail system along the Missouri River in Great Falls and the immediate environs of the city. More recently, the trail system has become an exhibit area for art. This piece by sculptor Chris Miller, combines a fish and a buffalo to create the "Rainboffalo." The piece is at the east entrance to the Weissman Memorial Bridge that crosses the river near downtown.

Backtracking to the fork mentioned above, Morony Dam can be accessed. Built in a narrower part of the river, in 1930, it still serves as a hydroelectric dam. While the area around the dam is less well developed than some of the others, there is a popular trail that leads to Sulphur Springs below the dam. When the Corps of Discovery was held up at the Big Eddy, a turbulent and dangerous stretch below the present dam, Meriwether Lewis used water from the spring to treat a malady plaguing Sacagawea, the group's native guide. Trail brochures describe the trail as an "easy 3.3 mile out and back trek," suitable for families.

And so, with the visit to Morony Dam completed, we headed on for a picnic at Fort Benton along the Mighty Mo in another famous historical location. I highly recommend reserving a couple of hours to take in some of the sites along the Missouri River so important to the development of this part of the state. Electricity first came to the Hi-Line from Great Falls in 1919. The electricity was likely produced from one of these dams and other facilities put together by the Montana Power Company. The dams are still doing their job.