South of the Border:"Writing-on-Stone Provincial Park: Still a powerful place to visit"
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The Hoodoo Interpretive Trail is a 1.3 mile walk along and through the cliffs where much of the rock art is found in the main park. Hoodoos are geologic spires created when softer material is worn away by wind and erosion leaving the harder rock. Some of the larger pockets in the cliff faces were used as burial sites for First Nations leaders.
By Steve Edwards
BCJ News
Columnist's comment: Before we moved to the Sweet Grass Hills several people told me, "Be sure and visit that park in southern Alberta. I think it's near Whitlash" There'd be some finger-snapping as they tried to recall the park's name, then, "It's something about 'words on rocks' and it's really fascinating." Turns out they were talking about Writing-on-Stone Provincial Park, less than an hour's drive from Whitlash.
With summer now on us, my wife and I decided to spend a day at the park. Here's some of what we learned during our day at a locale sacred to the First Nations and, agreed, it really is fascinating.
Location and brief history of Writing-on-Stone Park
The provincial park is less than an hour's drive from either the Sweetgrass/Coutts or the Whitlash/Aden Port of Entry. Crossing at Sweetgrass it's a short drive north to the town of Milk River, then east and south to the park via Local Highways 501 and 500 to the park, all paved roads.
From the border crossing just north of Whitlash, the park is also accessed via Local Highway 500. That part of 500 is gravel as is most of the 30+ miles to the border if you come from Chester through Whitlash to the crossing. The latter route is slower but a scenic drive through the heart of the Sweet Grass Hills. The park is on cliffs along the Milk River that eventually flows through Blaine County. The park is just north of the Sweet Grass Hills and West Butte is clearly visible from most parts of the provincial park.
Historians and archaeologists believe the Writing-on-Rocks area has been visited by various First Nations people for 3500 years. While there is evidence of different tribes using the area along the river and surrounding prairie, it is believed the Blackfoot People was the main group that spent time in the special area along the river.
The area was attractive to indigenous people during their seasonal travels for a variety of reasons. The valley and adjoining coulees provided respite from the prairie winds. There was abundant water which also attracted wildlife and game that could be harvested. Along the river were berries and cherries, an important food supplement to the prairie peoples. Historical evidence suggests some surrounding cliffs were used as small buffalo jumps, where herds would be driven over the cliffs and killed for meat and hides.
The terrain and appearance of the area is totally different from the surrounding prairie. In addition to tall cliffs, spectacular hoodoos, tall rock spires that are naturally carved out of solid rock, surround the river area. It was on these cliffs that the First Nations made their "rock art." Some etchings are believed to be 1000-2000 years old, with nearly all at least 300 years old.
The park was established in 1957 when locals recognized that much of the rock art was being lost to graffiti and vandalism. In 1977 the Archaeological Preserve, an area with restricted entry, was created to further preserve the rock art.
Rock Art: human-made markings on natural stone
Most of the pictures in the park are petroglyphs, drawings etched on to cliff walls with rocks or antlers. There are many theories about why the drawings were made and who made them. Some say the drawings were attempts to communicate with the spirit world. Others say the drawings were actually made by spirits. The art may have been done as a part of a larger ceremony or celebration. Drawings may have a few or many characters-both people and animals. Some appear to record an important event, like a great battle or a successful hunt. Most historians agree the art does not necessarily tell a story but rather "features images of powerful figures and spiritual relationships."
The area was sacred, feared and respected by the indigenous people. Some leaders were laid to rest in the pockets and caves in the area and people believed those spirits were still active. It was a place to communicate with the spirit world, to help find the future and discern a course of action. For all these reasons it was not a place where villages sprang up or long term camps were made.
The drawings are 'dated' in a couple of ways. Many drawings feature warriors with shields or on horses. Guns and horses both came to this part of the world in the early 1700's. "Shield drawings" likely predate 1730, before guns arrived. Drawings including images of horses are of a certain era-post-1730. Drawings using a "pecking technique" are believed to be older than those inscribed. Finally, over time a an aging process called 'desert varnish' appears on the face of the cliffs. A result of mineral interaction with the stone, a darker patina means an older drawing.
Things to see and do at Writing-on-Stone park
A guide in the Archaeological Preserve uses a walking stick to show the outline of a carved buffalo (circled). The buffalo was a special part of the plains Indians culture providing both food and hides. This drawing also shows a beaver (upper right), another revered animal that played a major role in the creation story of the Blackfoot People. The pock marks are from target practice done by Mounties stationed at a post along the Milk River in the late 1800's
The park is laid out so visitors can make a short visit to the Visitors' Center and get an idea of the significance of the site. Built on the edge of the cliffs and hoodoos, the visitors' center has excellent overlooks of the hoodoos and detailed exhibits both inside and outside the center.
To see the drawings up close, take the Hoodoo Interpretive Trail. The trail begins at either the campground or from the visitors' center. The walk is a 1.3 miles one way. It's a well maintained dirt track with some scrambling over rock shelves and narrow passages with minimal elevation changes.
The best preserved drawings are in the Archaeological Preserve. That area is accessible only on a tour scheduled through the Visitors' Center. A bus takes tour members to the river level and a guide shares a lot of detail about rock art examples. The tour involves fairly easy walking with places to rest at each stop. The tour takes about two hours and costs $19
The park has an excellent website with details about camping, making reservations for activities and other things to do in the park. The website address is a bit complicated so enter 'Writing-on-Stone Provincial Park' in your browser. Or, call the Visitors' Center at 403-647-2364 (to call from the U.S. add a "1" and then the 10 digit number). A visit to the park is well worth the time and effort.
