South of the Border; A road trip to "Cut Bank: the Coldest Spot in the Nation

 

August 21, 2019

Cut Bank distinguishes itself as "The Coldest Spot in the Nation (except Alaska)." This 27-foot tall concrete penguin, erected in 1989, greets visitors at the east end of Cut Bank on US Highway 2. The bitter winter weather is defined by cold arctic air masses pushing south along the continental divide and the area's comparatively high elevation.

Columnist's note: I recently took my vehicle for a recall notice to a dealership, the nearest being in Cut Bank. Beforehand the shop manager said, "Be prepared to spend the day."

Like most folks from this area, I've driven through Cut Bank on US Highway 2 several times heading over to Kalispell or on west. My wife and I rode Amtrak to Cut Bank from Libby to a church meeting several years ago and spent a weekend there. It was the dead of winter so not a good time to be walking around.

The day I took my car was sunny, mild temps and a steady but not unpleasant breeze, perfect for a walkabout in an unfamiliar town. Everyone I stopped to ask directions or quiz about some fact regarding the town was helpful. The folks at the dealership tracked down a key to one of the locked historical buildings. An "oil guy" interrupted his work to show me a map with the various oil fields and wells around Cut Bank. It was a pleasant day in a new place.

Here's some of what I learned about the Hi-line town that boasts "the Coldest Spot in the Nation (except Alaska)."

A brief history of Cut Bank

Cut Bank was started when the railroad reached the area in the 1890's. The original town site was on the west side of Cut Bank Creek. It was determined the town was on the reservation so the community moved east across the creek and was later incorporated in 1911. The railroad trestle that spans the creek is still a defining associated associated with Cut Bank.

Agriculture is a major economic driver in Cut Bank. The area is a part of the famed wheat growing region known as the Golden Triangle. The area also has ranching and has produced a number of well-known rodeo competitors over the years.

Oil and gas development began in the area in the 1920's. By 1940 the surrounding area had more than 500 oil wells and 78 gas wells and was home to "two large, one medium and two smaller oil refineries." In the 1960's new extraction technology allowed additional production from older wells, oil boomed again and the town's population reached 4500+ people. The population now is about 3000 and oil and gas still contribute significantly to the area.

A walk around Cut Bank

I noticed several mural-sized vintage photos on buildings downtown. On the west side of city hall was a photo of the old trestle with a short explanation of the photos. In 1944 Standard Oil of New Jersey sent photographer Edwin Rosskam to visually record the oil boom. Rosskam took about 250 photos.

Across Main street from city hall I noticed a huge fire truck in front of Northern Ford. John Waller, who owns the dealership, said he got the 1965 F950 Super Duty Ford from the Wilsall (Montana) Fire Department 10 years ago. The truck was originally purchased by the Billings Fire Department, then later donated to Wilsall. Waller laughed when he told, "Wilsall has no buildings taller than one story."

Waller also has a 1963 pumper truck that came from the Big Fork Fire Department. The old pumper is fitted with a gas cooking grill at the rear of the truck. Waller explained the truck is used each year to grill burgers at community picnics in Browning, Valier, Sunburst and Cut Bank. It's a fire truck 'with a grill at each end...'

Nearby is Masonic Lodge No. 82, chartered in 1911. The building was completed in the early 1940's. Among other functions the building hosted the USO (a nonprofit organization that provided aid and recreation to soldiers during World War II). Interestingly, the lodge held it first meeting in the new building on December 7, 1941, the day Japan bombed Pearl Harbor. The lodge is still active.

On the west side of town I saw a guy twirling a rope out on the sidewalk. I went over to Norman's Outdoor Sports Center and asked, "Who's the guy who was doing the rope work out front." Don Wilson, standing by the counter and taking the tags off a new cowboy hat, said, "That was me." Wilson is a local cowboy who's done team roping for years around the region.

Back outside and swinging the rope Wilson explained, "Buying a new rope is a lot like buying a pair of shoes. You need to "try on a rope" before you buy it." Wilson described how rope manufacturers use different materials and styles for ropes. He liked the rope he was testing because of a new feature that strengthened it. For his picture he asked if he could wear his new hat. I said yes but kidded him about his running shoes instead of cowboy boots.

Team roper Don Wilson, of Cut Bank, tries out a new rope in front of a sporting goods store. Wilson said buying a rope is like buying a new pair of shoes, "you have to try it on before you're sure it will fit."

At the west end of Railroad Street I photographed a small pumpjack. It reminded me of many I see along the Oilmont Road on my way home to Whitlash. John Finstad, with KeeSun Corporation, told me the 1960's era pumpjack was rescued from a salvage yard, refurbished and put on display at the company's office. Finstad said many of those old wells east of Oilmont are still working.

My last stop was the Farmers' Market, held 3-6pm each Wednesday afternoon of the summer in the Main Street Park. Jennifer Nanini oversees the market and said this was the eighth year for the event. She added, "We average about 12-20 vendors each week." There was everything from fresh produce and baked goods to handcrafted items.

For more information about seasonal events and attractions in and around Cut Bank visit the Chamber's website at: cutbankchamber.com or call 406-873-4041. The Chamber Visitors' Center is open daily during the summer at the east end of town on US Highway 2.

 
 

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